Azienda Agricola Bugno Martino, Lambrusco Mantovano Rosso Matilde 2022

Raffaella and Giuseppe Merlin started Bugno Martino in 2018 with a vision to make biodynamically farmed, naturally made Lambrusco in Mantua. In their small village of San Benedetto Po, on a contiguous plot of 9 hectares, they are building a fabulous line of wines that respect the environment and their terroir. First came their organic certification after they stopped all chemical spraying. They then found that biodynamic treatments encouraged the natural defenses of the vines against diseases and pests. They plant cover crops between the rows to return nutrients to soil and retain moisture. A key approach to quality is their reduction of yields to less than a quarter of the commercial Lambrusco yield at harvest. This allows them to harvest with higher alcohol levels, more concentration, and capture the character of the Salamino, Ancellotta, and Grappello Ruberti grapes.

In the winery, located steps from their vineyards in a simple shed, they take a minimal approach to winemaking. Primary fermentation occurs in tank with native yeasts, while the second fermentation occurs with a pied de cuvee cultivated in the vineyards. The second ferment occurs very slowly with sugar from frozen must from the vintage. Sulfur is only added after the second ferment (typically around 25ppm) and the wines are not fined or filtered. The resulting Lambrusco is full bodied and dry, with dark berry fruit character, and a particularly delicate and fine sparkle.